Walking Among Memory
✍️ Author’s Note
This essay is a reflection on memory rather than a judgment of the past. Walking through Amsterdam, among canals, buildings, and institutions, invites a consideration of how societies rise, flourish, and pass on their legacies. The Dutch Golden Age remains a period of remarkable creativity, innovation, and institutional development, but also one shaped by power, conflict, and exclusion.
Rather than celebrating or condemning, this piece seeks to understand — to hold achievement and limitation together, and to approach history with balance, restraint, and form.

Walking in nature has its benefits, but so does walking along the canals of Amsterdam, or spending time in the Rijksmuseum. Memory resides not only in landscapes but also in stone and water. Passing my former office on the Herengracht—one of those seventeenth-century merchant houses—you are reminded that even architectural details, such as the height of the doors, once signalled the wealth and standing of their owners.
Along the main canals, the Dutch Golden Age is never far away. Conventionally dated from the 1570s to the 1670s, it was a relatively brief period in which a small republic achieved an influence in finance, trade, culture, and ideas that far exceeded its size. To understand how this came about—and why it could not last—one must look beyond familiar images of wealth and empire, and further back in time.
What Made the Golden Age Possible
Visitors to the Dutch Republic were often struck not merely by its prosperity, but by its social order. Voltaire, who spent time in the Netherlands, was astonished by what he encountered: a relatively egalitarian, post-feudal society in which religious plurality, intellectual freedom, and civil rights were not abstract ideals but lived realities. He wrote admiringly of the Republic as a place where tolerance was not a weakness, but a source of strength.
As Will Durant later observed, the Dutch example also inspired Enlightenment thinkers such as Denis Diderot and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. Books censored in France could be printed and circulated in the Dutch Republic, quietly undermining the legitimacy of absolutist regimes elsewhere. Amsterdam, Leiden, and other Dutch cities became intellectual crossroads where ideas suppressed on the continent found safe passage.
To understand how such a society emerged, one must look far beyond the seventeenth century. In the ninth century, Europe remained overwhelmingly feudal: land-bound, hierarchical, and dominated by inherited privilege. Change came slowly, but decisively. In the eleventh and twelfth centuries, Europe experienced what Durant described as an early “industrial revolution”—a phase of technological and organisational transformation that laid the groundwork for later industrialisation.
Watermills spread widely, evolving from rudimentary installations into increasingly sophisticated sources of mechanical power. Water-driven processes transformed milling, textiles, and early manufacturing. Agricultural methods improved, productivity rose, and surplus production expanded. These developments gradually weakened the rigid structures of feudal society.
Economic change brought social change in its wake. New classes emerged—merchants, artisans, financiers—whose wealth derived not from land or title, but from trade, production, and skill. With this came growing demands for autonomy, legal protection, and freedom of enterprise.
In much of Europe—France, the German lands, Spain—such demands were resisted or absorbed into increasingly centralised and absolutist systems. In the Low Countries, however, a different trajectory unfolded. Cities such as Leiden, Delft, Rotterdam, and Dordrecht gained increasing autonomy. Urban self-government, guild traditions, and municipal law fostered a political culture that valued negotiation over decree.
Within this framework, the business class prospered. Contracts, trust, and enforceable law mattered more than lineage. Religious pluralism—never complete, but unusually broad for its time—attracted refugees, skills, capital, and ideas. Over time, this produced a society that was unusually open, mobile, and resilient.
The success of the Dutch Republic rested not merely on trade or expansion, but on the early realisation—born of necessity—that freedom, tolerance, and pragmatism were productive forces. Other European powers would eventually move in this direction, but much later and often more violently. The Republic arrived there earlier, and for a time, reaped the rewards.
Pragmatism, Innovation, and Cultural Flourishing
Too often, the Dutch Golden Age is reduced to wealth accumulation and colonial expansion. Yet it was equally a period of extraordinary cultural, scientific, and intellectual achievement. Figures such as Antonie van Leeuwenhoek and Christiaan Huygens exemplify an age of curiosity, experimentation, and discovery. Advances in microscopy, astronomy, physics, and mathematics were not accidental by-products of wealth; they were embedded in a broader culture of practical inquiry.
That culture had deep roots. The Netherlands developed an enduring tradition of problem-solving grounded in experience rather than abstract ideology. This pragmatism enabled Amsterdam to thrive as the centre of European banking and trade. Its rise rested not on grand theories of power, but on workable solutions: trust, contracts, credit, and institutions that functioned.
Innovation helped shape early modern capitalism within a climate of relative tolerance. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, an estimated half a million migrants settled in the Dutch Republic—an extraordinary number for a country of barely one million inhabitants. Immigration was not marginal; it was structural. It supplied labour, skills, networks, and ideas, and helped man the ships of the Dutch East India Company, without which Dutch global trade would have been impossible.
Refugees transformed the Republic. Sephardic Jews fleeing persecution brought sophisticated banking practices and international commercial connections. Huguenots contributed advanced manufacturing techniques. Amsterdam became a haven for religious refugees, political exiles, and independent thinkers. Intellectual freedom attracted figures such as René Descartes and John Locke. Baruch Spinoza, though excommunicated by the Jewish community in Amsterdam, developed his philosophical system within this wider climate of debate and inquiry.
Alongside scientific inquiry and commercial innovation, the Dutch Golden Age produced an extraordinary flowering of the arts. Painters such as Rembrandt van Rijn, Johannes Vermeer, and Jacob van Ruisdael captured the essence of the Republic in different but complementary ways. Rembrandt explored the human interior—character, age, doubt, dignity. Vermeer rendered silence, light, and domestic order with almost scientific precision. Ruysdael turned outward, giving form to skies, forests, water, and horizons, reflecting a society deeply aware of its fragile relationship with land and nature.
Art was no longer confined to courts or churches, but entered the homes of merchants and citizens. In this sense, Dutch painting became both a mirror of society and a democratisation of vision. Its influence extended far beyond the Republic, shaping artistic traditions across Europe and beyond.
The rule of law was central to sustaining this environment—though tragically, its reach remained largely domestic. Internationally, power politics, warfare, and exploitation persisted.
The Republic’s influence extended beyond its borders in decisive ways. When William III of England came to power following the Dutch invasion of England in 1688—an invasion notably welcomed—he brought not only troops but organisational intelligence. Dutch financiers, merchants, and technocrats followed. Boardrooms accompanied battalions.
This transfer reshaped England’s financial system. Stock markets, war bonds, fiscal discipline, and institutional credibility followed. The establishment of the Bank of England marked a decisive moment. Dutch financial innovation, amplified by England’s greater scale, helped finance what would become the British Empire.
In this sense, the Dutch Golden Age did not simply end; it migrated. What endured was not dominance, but a legacy of institutional design, pragmatism, and innovation.
The Golden Age and Its Limits
By around 1600, Amsterdam had become the financial capital of Europe, possessing the most advanced systems of credit, insurance, and exchange of its time. Its capital market was unmatched in sophistication, attracting vast savings and facilitating international investment.
Modern banking had earlier roots in Florence and other Italian city-states, but from the late sixteenth century onward, financial innovation shifted north to the Low Countries. Institutions evolved alongside rapid economic growth in a relatively open environment.
Europe, however, was—and remains—a continent shaped by war. Between 1500 and 1800, its great powers were almost continuously in conflict. The Eighty Years’ War (1568–1648) began as a revolt and became a protracted struggle that led to the establishment of the Dutch Republic. The Treaty of Münster ended both this conflict and the Thirty Years’ War, two of the most devastating wars in European history.
Throughout its Golden Age, the Republic faced existential threats from larger powers. The predominantly Protestant state was surrounded by Catholic rivals—Spain, Portugal, and France—and fought a series of Anglo-Dutch wars with England. Over time, these conflicts strained its resources and independence.
The Netherlands was never an empire in the classical sense. With a population of only one to one-and-a-half million, it was fundamentally a trading nation—at most a trading empire. It dominated European commerce, acted as intermediary between nations, and innovated through ships such as the fluyt and institutions such as the Wisselbank.
Decline was inevitable. England, larger in population and resources, gradually caught up and overtook Dutch primacy. By 1713, financial exhaustion and the cumulative effects of mercantilist competition had eroded Dutch dominance. The Fourth Anglo-Dutch War (1780–84) confirmed England’s naval supremacy and marked the end of the Republic as a world power. The process was gradual, not dramatic.
Closing
Walking again along the canals, what remains of the Dutch Golden Age is not empire, but legacy. That legacy is substantial and enduring. The Republic contributed to economic prosperity through institutions that shaped modern capitalism; it fostered artistic flourishing that continues to influence global culture; it pioneered political innovation grounded in law, negotiation, and restraint; it advanced technological ingenuity; and it marked an early phase of globalisation by connecting continents through trade, finance, and ideas.
Yet memory does not stand still. The way the Golden Age has been understood has changed over time. Figures once celebrated without hesitation—naval heroes such as Michiel de Ruyter and Maarten Tromp—are now viewed through a more complex lens. What was long framed as national achievement and maritime brilliance is increasingly examined alongside its costs: exploitation, colonial violence, and the human consequences of global trade.
This reassessment neither erases the Golden Age nor reduces it to a catalogue of wrongdoing. It reflects a maturation of historical consciousness. Prosperity and progress were real, but unevenly distributed. Innovation and tolerance coexisted with coercion and exclusion. Memory, like history itself, is layered: it absorbs new knowledge, confronts earlier silences, and revises inherited judgments.
To walk among memory, then, is not to choose between pride and remorse, but to hold complexity without simplification. The Dutch Golden Age was a period of remarkable creativity, institutional intelligence, and cultural confidence. It was also inseparable from the power structures and moral limitations of its time. What endures is not a simple story of glory or guilt, but a deeper understanding of how societies rise, flourish, and leave behind legacies that demand both recognition and reflection.
“The aim of philosophy is not to ridicule, lament, or condemn human actions, but to understand them.”
— Baruch Spinoza
William J J Houtzager, Aka WJJH, January 2025
📌Blog Excerpt
Walking along the canals of Amsterdam, memory emerges not as nostalgia, but as structure — embedded in stone, water, and institutions. The Dutch Golden Age was a brief but extraordinary moment of creativity, pragmatism, and innovation. It was also a period shaped by conflict, power, and exclusion. To understand its legacy is not to choose between pride and remorse, but to walk carefully among both.